Walking Cuba: El Camino del Cimarron

Day 9: Cruising Into Cruces

There is a small hotel next to the monument commemorating the battle of Mal Tiempo. After touring the plaza with Maipu and Aniel, the director gave me a tour.

“We have nine large rooms with the capacity for forty-five people. It’s not the Hilton but we receive people year-round. Groups of tourists, but mostly school trips or national organizations.” He points to the work area at the end of one wing. “As you can see, we’re renovating.”

Elias handed me a tray of cookies. The place had seen better days, I hope, because as it stands, it remains several renovations away from being a rustic summer camp retreat.

Back in the day, Elias tells me, when the Baños de Bija were functioning, the motel would be full of guests.

“A little bus would stop right out front and take visitors to the baths and bring them back later. A bus from Cruces stopped here too on the way to los Baños.”

Outside, we say goodbye to Aniel. The promotora probably wished that she could join him, but she silently resigned herself to her fate, accompanying me to the Mal Tiempo sugar mill through the shrub.

We work our way around a fence to the south of the monument and head towards the smokestack sprouting in the…