Walking Cuba: El Camino del Cimarron

Day 6: Zulueta to Guaracabulla, the geographic center of Cuba — Part 2

The date associated with the Triunfo de la Revolución, the Triumph of the Revolution, is January 1, 1959. Many people imagine the bearded rebels marching into Havana on New Year’s Day, welcomed by the jubilant throngs. The date and the triumph, however, have more to do with events that took place along these cane fields and guardarayas on New Year’s Eve, 1958.

Che Guevara and his troops overwhelmed the forces of Batista in Santa Clara, the city about thirty kilometers to the west of Placetas. Che took Placetas on December 22, 1958 and Remedios on Christmas Day, 1958. He regrouped in Placetas and asked his cartographer to find a route to Santa Clara “por dentero,” not on the main roads leading to the city. His troops moved in the direction of Sabana, a small town north west of Placetas. It is certain that his route crossed the path that we blazed today.

It is easy to imagine their rifled trudging through these back roads, cheered on by the parents of the folks we meet today. The old lady who served us good lemonade and bad information was a child then. Maybe she watched open mouthed as Che and his rebels disappeared into the cane, hopeful or fearful of what lay ahead.