Day 1: Sagua La Grande to El Purio: The Last Leg

Down the hill from Guayabo Cuartel, we hit a dirt road and approach the Circuito Norte. Coming our way from the direction we’re heading, trooping in their flats and casual dresses, are the director of Cultura of Sagua la Grande and a heavy-set lady who will introduce herself as the promotora culturalof the town of Viana.

We see their smile from afar. Once closer, we see their faces and arms glistening with sweat. The heavier one has elaborately strapped shoes. Her feet bulged like soft freshly baked white bread loaves against the plastic trusses.

“Por fin,” says the promotora as she introduces herself. Finally.

“Where is the car?” I know that they have not walked far in their gear. She points down the path.

“Waiting at the juncture with the road,” the promotora says. “This is our exercise for the day.” She laughs. “For many days, really.” She gracefully wipes the sweat forming on her upper lip with a handkerchief.

We pass the closed tienda and admire a grey building behind an iron gate, a cement structure darkened with mold. “Villa Una” announces the arch above the gate. A beautiful, abandoned house that must…