Day 1: Sagua la Grande to El Purio. (38 km)…continued

Vitoria to Guayabo Cuartel: I’m not a delinquent.

At the three-house hamlet known as Vitoria, we ask for directions again. Women look out of their front doors at the sight of a backpacker with two young men in street clothes with trepidation. Maykel approaches them, greeting them with a smile.

“No need to alarm them more than necessary,” he explains to me. Two güajiros working on their tractor nearby come to see what we need. Alejandro and I explain that we want to reach El Purio “por dentro.” Maykel returns, relaying the directions offered by the women. The güajiros overhear and disagree with the instructions passed on by the women.

“The first part here is easy,” says the tall, thin one with the hooked nose. “Just straight up this path,” he points up the path where we came in.

“But like you see, it disappears,” said the short thing one with the hooked nose, pointing and then hooking his arm around some imagined bend. “But it keeps going,” he said, “you just can’t see it from here.”

“Where did you say you want to go?” asked the first one.

“El Purio,” I say.

“Estan cercita,” said the second. You’re really close.